Georges 34 Ford – Fastlane Rod Shop

George’s 34 Ford 3 Window

2013 Hot Rod of the Year

We’re using a Steve’s Auto-Restoration body and fenders to build the ultimate hot rod. Powered by a 425 Hilborn Injected Nailhead linked to a 5 speed and Winters quick change, it will definitely run as good as it looks! A good chop along with many subtle changes will set this 3 window apart. A traditional styled interior will round out what’s going to be a great car to look at and drive. We’ll eventually cover it in a DuPont orange.

Click on the images at the top to expand a gallery featuring more details. Scroll over for more images!

Here’s the start – an unboxed pair of frame rails

Since it’s a full fendered car, we’re welding in blocks for fenders, running boards and body mounts. We’ll drill and tap them later.

The initial placement of the boxed rails in the jig. Once everything is checked against the blueprint, we’ll make some additional fixtures.

Here’s a shot of the body on the frame with rear-end temporarily set in. We wanted to run a decent sized tire, so we knew we would need to narrow the rear rails.

It’s pretty obvious here the frame will need to be narrowed a bit.

Here’s a shot after narrowing the rear rails. Enough clearance without getting crazy. We’re tackle the inner fenders soon.

Added some holes to the rear ladder bar brackets.

We’re starting to get the rearend and rear crossmember located now that we have axle centerline.

Here’s the stock floor. Steve’s Auto Restoration does a beautiful job building these cars. I almost hate to cut into it, but we need to narrow the inner fender wells a bit for clearance.

At this point the rear floor has been removed along with the inner fender well.

We’ve moved in the floor section about two inches. Just need to add the filler strip across the wheel well.

The section has been added.

The floor has been added. We’ve raised it about 2” for rear-end and crossmember clearance. We now have clearance for a decent (but not too big) rear tire

Here’s the stock firewall. We’re running a Hilborn Injected Nailhead with a Joe Hunt Magneto which will need a little clearance. We’re going to leave the X’s, just shortened up a bit.

At this point we’ve cut out the section that needs to be relieved and shortened up the X’s, now just need to make a nice curved piece in it’s place. The object is to keep it looking as original as possible .

Here’s what we came up with. Hopefully it looks like it could have came from the factory this way.

The top area is curved also. Little more work, but looks a lot better

Now we have a little extra room.

Since we’re running a fairly narrow rearend with a Model A type of suspension, things get a little tricky. In-order to get the correct distance between shackle mounting points, we needed to modify the rearend brackets. We put a couple of bends in them, along with a stiffening brace. This moves the mounting point out past the bearing area of the axle.

Because we moved them out a bit, they are now protruding into the backing plate area. We needed to step this area in for clearance. This is the maximum amount of step allowed and still have clearance for the brakes shoes to work correctly. Actually, this distance was figured out first in order to know how far we could move the bracket out….so this is a little out of order.

The bracket welded onto the rear.

We are running the So-Cal rear brake covers, which will also need to be modified for clearance. We had to mill off a small amount of fins (all of the way around). This is one of many little things that have to be done in-order to build a “simple” car.

With the engine placement, we can now start adding crossmembers.

The clutch and brake pedal are located.

We’ve made the master cylinder mount and clutch linkage pivot.

The rest of the clutch linkage is made and tranny mount finished. Also the rear ladder bars are located and mounts made.

Onto the rear-end. The sway bar is mounted, panhard bar mounts made and mounted.

Rear shock mounts are done.

Then came the motormounts. We wanted something sturdy looking, since a nailhead isn’t exactly light. We built in the motor mount to the right side mount.

The left side mount. Next we’ll move on to the headers and exhaust system

This is what we’re starting with. A set of flanges from Headers by Ed.

Since we’re using a nailhead, which has a drivers side starter, along with a manual tranny, things are going to be pretty tight on the drivers side. Here we have our collector situated, so it’s just a matter of getting the tubes to it

First one is pretty easy, as we want it at the bottom inside of the collector.

Second tube is also pretty straightforward, going to the bottom outside of the collector.

Things start to get a little tricky as we add the third tube. What’s making it a little difficult is the collector needs to be as far forward as possible. It’s also making a turn to avoid the leg of the k-member..

We’ve added the 4th tube. Also at this point we’ve finished modifying the collector and adding it to the header. Just starting on the rest of the exhaust…

Here’s the start of the right side. Only the oil filter to deal with here

The tubes are in place, just need to modify the collector for a nice fit and start welding.

The tubes cut and ready for the collector.

The collector added. Now ready for the rest of the exhaust system.

During the chassis build, locating front axle centerline was difficult. ‘34 front fenders have two “peaks”. The fender bead has a high point about an inch behind the top of the fender peak. So whichever one you use to place the front wheels in line with, the other peak makes it look like the axle centerline is off. So I choose to go with the peak on top of the fender (it’s the farthest forward) when I built the chassis and now I’m going to move the fender bead to match. Here I’ve marked the first section I’m going to remove and reshape

The section has been removed, reshaped and added back to the fender. The cardboard shows the original shape..

Most of the welding is done.

Welded in and filed/sanded. Now on to the back half to make the bead flow better

Here’s where we’re going to cut the back section

Welded back in – just needs to be finished.

Here’s a close up of the finish work.

We’re done. The opening still has the familiar shape of the ‘34, just now the axle centerline”s” are the same. Now on to the right side..

We’re going to cut the top on George’s ‘34 roughly 3.5” in the front, 3” in the back. Plus, we’re going to lean the post back AND split the roof. Twice as much work, but by doing both, it will have a nicer look and proportion. If just one or the other is done, it becomes real obvious what was done (not really in a good way). To start, I want to get rid of the overlap joints on the Steve’s Autorestorations body. The upper rear window section is the first one we’ll attack.

The upper section has been removed.

Spot welds have been drill out. We’ll now cut the metal so we can have a butt joint.

Welded in and filed/sanded. Now on to the back half to make the bead flow better

Top is now off.

We’ve done some calculations, and we’re going to lean the post back about 3/4”, and split the roof and add 7/8”.

The posts are leaned back and welded (both inside structure and outside). The back quarter pieces cut and mocked up to check alignment.

Looks good here…

The center filler piece is added to the roof.

The quarter section is welded.

The passenger side is finished (the body part).

As you can see, we’re trying to finish the metal as nice as possible. Now on to the doors and garnish moldings.

Now we’re moving on to chopping the doors. When we’re done, the upper hinge is going to be in the same proportion to the window is was from the factory. In other words, we’re not going to cut above or below the hinge (the easiest thing to do), but rather through it so it remains just a “tick” above center of the window opening when done.

The upper section has been removed.

Since we leaned the windshield posts back, we need to do the same on the doors. Here’s the outer section has been removed to access the inner structure.

Front section welded.

Removing the hinge area.

Once the exact location of the hinge was located, it is welded back into the door.

Looks like it was never messed with. You can also see where we narrowed up the vent area of the metal. It was way too wide once the window area was shortened.

Garnish molding went through the same treatment. Plus the bottom section was lengthened about an inch. A lot of work here….

The back window cutting is done along with welding in the upper back window section. Next we will move on to filling the roof.

We decided early on the roof was going to be filled. We opted for a Bobby Walden insert. He does such a nice job with the contour, it’s the only way to go! At this point we’ve fitted the insert with the opening, taking care to get the best fit possible. We will slowly tack the roof together until it’s completely welded.

You can see the nice fit. It’s critical when TIG welding the insert.

Welded, filed, sanded. Done!

It’s really not difficult, you just need to take your time and move slowly.

Finished up the windshield frame.

We wanted to use a bucket seat in the ‘34. Something that could have been used in the late sixties. We chose a ‘65 Impala SS seat. It has a cool chrome trim piece – just the right look in this car. The obvious one downside is they are too wide. We are going to have to narrow them to fit, being careful not to look like a ‘70 Corvette seat

With everything removed, this is what we’ve got.

After taking about 4” out of the center, we have a good fit. We now need to narrow the chrome strip across the top.

The upper section has been narrowed.

Need to dimple the screw hole like the original.

Just made a little tool in the lathe, then pressed the trim piece with it.

Just like the factory piece.

Seats are done.

Here’s a little sneak-peak!

We’ve got this ugly area where the body meets the frame and rear fenders. The stock piece will not work since we’ve changed the tank mounting. We’ll just need to make a filler piece instead.

Here’s the filler piece we made. We’ll need to finish off the end where the spreader bar is and we’ll also tie in a rear taillight mount that will hide the wires.

We’ve added the area where the spreader bar will bolt through.

Bolted in with the taillight mount (which has hidden wires) added.

We’re using an original grill. We’re going to shorten it up a bit (1/2”), so as to help with the flow of the cowl to hood. It’s enough to help, but not enough to be noticeable. And it’s really no big deal since we need to have the grill re-chromed anyway.

At this point the cut area has been marked.

It’s cut – no turning back now!

Welded back together.

You can’t tell anything has been done. But this little bit helps tremendously in hoodtop to cowl and body line flow.

Here’s the stock dash. We’re going to use rare 2 5/8” green line gauges, along with a VERY rare 4 1/2 green line speedo. The standard green line speedo is 3 3/8” Does not look in proportion with 2 5/8” gauges. We’d like to put the speedo with a smaller gauge on each side in the raised area directly in front of the driver. When doing this, the gauges will practically touch. So we going to add a little width to the raised area, hoping to not add enough to make it noticeable.

This shows the problem – these are templates of the actual size of the gauges. Looks way too crowded!

Here’s where we’ll make the cuts.

At this point we’ve moved the left side of the large circle over about 3/4” (the open space in the middle of the circle is the actual amount). It isn’t obvious this was done, but now we’ll have the room for the 3 gauges with a little space between each.

The 3 gauges are mounted. They look “comfortable” in the space.

The tach has been added

The other two gauges are in a mount we made to go with the raised areas of the dash.

Looks like a late ‘60’s pure hot rod dash! Basically just a stock dash with some basic aftermarket gauges!

Once the hood is placed along with the shell, it’s time to start cutting/fitting.

Pretty typical hood fit. When the hood top is brought up to the height on the cowl, the beltline is not even close. Like this on both sides.

Here we’ve added the strip needed. A lot of welding here….

Sanded and done.

Now on to fitting the hood side. Once it is fit to the cowl, a strip is welded for a nicer, finished look.

Close up of the welded edge.

Finish sanded.

This hood side is done. We’ve made a hood latch setup that allows George to run without hood sides and no hood latch showing from the side.

The look without hood sides. The hood top is latched

All fitted around shell.

Should be a good look when painted and detailed.

We’re going to make some lower door sills. The aftermarket pieces are just not very nice. Here we want to make something that blends in, not stands out. We’ll start out with a flat piece of 18 gauge.

We start out by rolling the top section where the carpet will go underneath. This point is critical, as it needs to be high enough for carpet to tuck underneath, but no higher.

We have to put a bit of a curve in the piece, as the body curves in this area.

Test fit. Now we’ll put in a raised section for a nicer look.

Using the bead roller to add the raised section

The raised area about done.

For mounting, we’ll add some dimpled screw holes.

Finished. Just a stock looking, basic piece.

Sanding/buffing phase. I like to paint the top edge the carpet color, so it blends into the interior better.

A peek at the finished/install piece

Here’s what we’re starting with. A ‘65 Buick 425. This motor has never been in a car. It was a factory replacement 425 with dual quads. It was purchased from nailhead guru Russell Martin of Centerville Auto Repair where he went though the internals. We are running a Hilborn Injection setup on it. It’s been out to Steve Sbelgio’s Eclipse Engineering where all of the electronics were wired, then engine broke in and fine tuned. Now it’s just a matter of smoothing the block/heads and making it look good.

Here’s some shots after the grinding/smoothing is done.

Primed and block sanded.

We are ready for paint.

Painted and ready for finish assembly.

A shot of the finished oil pan.

The painted tranny.

Pretty close to a finished engine. Cleaned up real nice without being to “showy”…

Frame is back from getting sandblasted. All the welding is finished, so just a little prep and it will be epoxy primed.

Once it was epoxy primed, then all of the filler work was done. Here it’s in its last coats of primer. A lot of tedious work left to get it ready for paint.

Blocked, cleaned and prepped for paint.

After almost a week of color sanding and buffing

Every spot on the chassis was hard blocked and buffed. Even the tubes, so now there is no ripples looking down each tube

Ready for final assembly

After a ton of work and block sanding, the floor and firewall are ready for paint.

That’s done, now time to move on to the outer shell.

Everything is sanded, cleaned and prepped. Ready for some Hugger Orange.

About a weeks worth of sanding and buffing on the underside of the floor. Now to the firewall and topside.

Another week and a half on the topside and firewall. We’re done and ready for the body to be set down on the chassis.

We’re finally to this point. This is always a great day. Finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel (and it’s not a train).

Everything went well and now it’s time for more assembly.

Radiator’s in, and some of the interior pieces. The goal now is to get it running and ready for the interior shop.

Grill shell and aprons are added.

Took it on it’s maiden voyage. Everything went well. It was a great drive (even without the drivers door)!

Looks like a hot rod.

Think it’s got a pretty good stance.

Ready for the interior shop. Dave and Sally Schober will be doing the interior in Sandwich Illinois. They did a great job on Phil and Deb Becker’s 3 window.

We’re using Boom Mat insulation material. First we add the peel and stick Boom Mat to all of the surfaces.

Then we add the UC Lite. This product helps with both sound deadening and thermal insulation.

The interior should now be very quiet and more comfortable regarding heat. This is a great product, easy to use and worth every penny!